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| Bichkek, porte du Musée d'Histoire, Chuy Prospekt. |
Sunday, September 30th. At 7.00 a.m. I am at the taxi station for Isfara. I leave almost immediately by minibus. At about 10.00, I arrive in Isfara where I change vehicle. It is a public taxi which crosses the Kyrgyz border and goes to Batken. No problem to leave Tajikistan territory. On the Kyrgyz side, the policeman, after turning slowly the pages of my passport, waves at me to wait.
- Ya fransous, I tell him, niéto visa.
Since August, visa is no longer necessary for EEC foreign nationals.
- Znayou, he answers.
If he knows, why does he not allow me to pass ? He makes a call phone. I am still awaiting. Other people go ahead and pass me over. I ask again and insist because the taxi is waiting for me, but how long ? New phone call and the boss finally appears. The officer takes his time to examine my passport before slamming the entry stamp. In Batken, change of taxi for Osh where we arrive six hours later. With a time differential of one hour with Tajikistan, it is too late for the fly to Bishkek where I have decided to go first. Tomorrow I will be on that fly, sitting next to Dariya, student in aeronautics in Dresden. She returns to Germany after holidays in her family in Osh. We will discuss during the flight and then during a lunch in Bishkek before she visits relatives and leaves.
Capital of Kyrgyzstan seems more modern than Tashkent or Dushanbe. When I say modern, I imply, unintentionally, having adopted the codes which feel familiar to me. As if there could not be a modernity other than western. In short, there are in Bishkek little nice coffees and girls are wearing the miniskirt. We can see in the South high snow-covered mountains of Ala-Too which peaks in 4800 metres. The car traffic is high but, unusual in Central Asia, the motorists respect the pedestrians and often yield. A Mig in Kiev Street, the name of streets, the red stars, the Tsum department store are there to remember the past. Sometimes, a new destination for this heritage has been found. As this pavilion near the Dubovy Park. Inside is an antique beautiful statue representing a woman carrying a bowl on her head, and outside is decorated with interlaced scroll. It now acts as karaoke. Dubovy Park, in front of Manas statue, demonstrators demand the nationalization of a Canadian group which mines and deals the gold in the country. The omnipresent Police is just looking on. A peaceful demonstration in Central Asia, that confirms the René Cagnat words when he claims that tiny Kyrgyzstan, surrounded by totalitarian and authoritarian countries, is the most democratic country of CIS. And it could be added, one of the few countries where a woman was invested with presidential power, even if the interval was shortlived because it was a transitional period. After fair elections, the country is governed again by a man. That whets my appetite and I go for lunch in the beautiful chaikhana Jalalabad, Togolok Moldo Street, where there are many finely finished tapshans.
- Ya fransous, I tell him, niéto visa.
Since August, visa is no longer necessary for EEC foreign nationals.
- Znayou, he answers.
If he knows, why does he not allow me to pass ? He makes a call phone. I am still awaiting. Other people go ahead and pass me over. I ask again and insist because the taxi is waiting for me, but how long ? New phone call and the boss finally appears. The officer takes his time to examine my passport before slamming the entry stamp. In Batken, change of taxi for Osh where we arrive six hours later. With a time differential of one hour with Tajikistan, it is too late for the fly to Bishkek where I have decided to go first. Tomorrow I will be on that fly, sitting next to Dariya, student in aeronautics in Dresden. She returns to Germany after holidays in her family in Osh. We will discuss during the flight and then during a lunch in Bishkek before she visits relatives and leaves.
Capital of Kyrgyzstan seems more modern than Tashkent or Dushanbe. When I say modern, I imply, unintentionally, having adopted the codes which feel familiar to me. As if there could not be a modernity other than western. In short, there are in Bishkek little nice coffees and girls are wearing the miniskirt. We can see in the South high snow-covered mountains of Ala-Too which peaks in 4800 metres. The car traffic is high but, unusual in Central Asia, the motorists respect the pedestrians and often yield. A Mig in Kiev Street, the name of streets, the red stars, the Tsum department store are there to remember the past. Sometimes, a new destination for this heritage has been found. As this pavilion near the Dubovy Park. Inside is an antique beautiful statue representing a woman carrying a bowl on her head, and outside is decorated with interlaced scroll. It now acts as karaoke. Dubovy Park, in front of Manas statue, demonstrators demand the nationalization of a Canadian group which mines and deals the gold in the country. The omnipresent Police is just looking on. A peaceful demonstration in Central Asia, that confirms the René Cagnat words when he claims that tiny Kyrgyzstan, surrounded by totalitarian and authoritarian countries, is the most democratic country of CIS. And it could be added, one of the few countries where a woman was invested with presidential power, even if the interval was shortlived because it was a transitional period. After fair elections, the country is governed again by a man. That whets my appetite and I go for lunch in the beautiful chaikhana Jalalabad, Togolok Moldo Street, where there are many finely finished tapshans.
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| Nurahim dans la chaïkhana Naïza, Chuy Prospekt à Bichkek. |
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| Chaïkhana Jalalabad, rue Togolok. |
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| Chaïkhana Jalalabad, rue Togolok. |
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| Chaïkhana Jalalabad, rue Togolok. |
Bichkek, avenue Chuy, rassemblement contre l'exploitation des mines d'or par le Canada.
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