The miniaturist

Ouzbékistan, Boukhara, Madina, miniature, tapshan, tapchane, © L. Gigout, 2012
Miniature réalisée par Madina en 2013. Le sofa volant, aquarelle naturelle, or sur papier de soie façon XVIe siècle.

In the nearby workshop officiate Madina. Three girls surround her while she paints on the hands of one of them a henna design for Eid. But her real activity consists in painting miniatures, watercolors and ceramics. She is 19. She is of Arab origin, that is why, she tells me, her eyebrows join in the root of her nose. I ask her to paint for me a miniature representing a flying tapshan. My proposal seems to put her on the spot. She pouts. That is out of the ordinary.
- How can a tapshan fly ?
- If there are flying carpets, there may be flying tapshans. You have only to dream this night that you are on a flying tapshan with your prince charming. When you lean over, you can see a caravan approaching the Kalyan Minaret and Rushana seated in front of her shop. You wave your hand.
- I need a true story. I can't draw if I have no story to tell. Your story is not a true story.

All Madina family works in creations revolving around painting and ceramic. I have dinner with her in a chaïkhana. Madina brought a preparation with meat and French fries cooked by her sister. Having dinner, I accompany her in the Divan-Begui Madrassah where she has to make appearances during one hour in her uncle's shop. Davron is considered as the best miniaturist of Bukhara and is frequently invited in Europe for exhibitions. He trained Madina in his art. He taught to her to compose her miniatures by herself, without copying the old drawings, by being inspired by the literature of Omar Khayyam, by Nasreddin Khodja and by Alisher Navoï and the life of Avicenne. Omar Khayyam is often featured drinking wine in pleasant company.
- You believe that he really drank wine, I asked Madina by remembering the "spiritual wine" about which Saad had spoken.
- Of course, she retorts. He drinks the wine all day long, listen to music and love girls. It is the truth.
- Who is Alisher Navoï?
- It is a great poet. He lived in Persia and in Samarcande in 15th century.


Ouzbékistan, Boukhara, Liab-i-Haouz, Madina, miniaturiste, © L. Gigout, 2012
Madina le soir à Liab-i-Haouz.

Dark eyed one, show your mercy,
Come make your nest in my eyes.
Turn my heart into a flowerbed, for the blossoms that are your face.
And rest your sapling form
In the garden that is my life.
 

Excerpt from Qaro ko'zim (Alisher Navoi) which is still today one of the most popular songs in Uzbekistan (english version on this website by Dukhiram).

Alisher Navoï wrote ghazals, a traditional poetic form in all Central Asia and mogole India. Of Arab origin, the word "ghazal" means "liking speaking to the women". It refers a versification form common to the oriental Muslim people.

In the madrassah yard, the tourists sitting at a table do not care the ghazals and the miniatures of Madina's uncle. They go away, full, and the madrassah empties little by little. We go then in another shop, usually run by her mother at Lab-i Hauz square. We spend more than one hour together, sitting near the pond, her looking at the shop while keeping me company. She speaks to me about her future and her dreams. A marriage is imperative because she will be twenty next year. It will then be easier for her to travel because it is impossible for a single girl to obtain a visa for Europe. So many of them have not returned in the past. She will go in Italy where it had been proposed that she exhibits her miniatures. It may allow worked in a pizzéria to earn some money to buy colors. She will go in France, of course. It is often said that Paris is a so beautiful city. Facetious, she sometimes has fun representing the Eiffel Tower in her drawings, next to the Kalân Minaret. She calls me to speak to her about this river which crosses the capital and about this museum which contains the most beautiful paintings. Are there miniatures in this museum ? And tapshans, does she tease me, is there tapshans in your chaikhanas ? The next time you come, I will lead you into my family's kichlak (village in Russian). We have a very old model over there... Her mother joins us and stays a moment with us before deciding it is time to close shop.


Voir aussi ici
More photos Bukhara

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