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| Parents de Nafisa dans leur maison du quartrier Motrit à Samarcande. |
Back to Samarkand where we are expected by Nafisa's parents for lunch. Nafisa has left Uzbekistan for France ten years ago in order to perform masterfully conducted studies. She acted like many young people of her age, went abroad after the Bachelor by the impossibility to find on-site quality higher education. Sometimes you must baksheeshing to access the unversity where you can buy a degree which is so devalued. These young people often speak two or three local languages from different families (Uzbek, Russian, Tajik) and western (English, French or German). They leave for Europe, Canada or the States. More rarely in Russia, yet neighbouring country. But Russia is above all, for men and women in Central Asia, a land where they go by necessity and without great pleasure. After independence, with the economic difficulties, hundreds of thousands go there in search of a work often hard, dangerous and underpaid, requiring no qualifications, women working often under difficult conditions in great cities markets. Contributing with their work to support their families or left alone at home to manage the house, the women participate in fact in the questioning about power relations traditionally patriarchal. If labor migrants consider their situation as temporary and eventually return home, most students left in western countries will not return, which will have certain consequences for the future elites in these countries. The decision to leave is reinforced, among girls, by the desire to escape the tradition of arranged marriage from 20 years and to the family containment that results. Make the great journey requires from them a strong character and a lot of courage.
Nafisa's parents live in a neighborhood called Motrid. The name is a reference to Madrid, as well as we find, at the north of Samarkand when we take the direction of Lake Aydar-Kul, a village named Farij (Paris). This toponymy comes from the time when Tamerlan brought european craftsmen to build his palace. The house is traditional. The intimacy of family life is given by the wall that closes the property. Buildings, apartments and outbuildings are arranged around an area that has a well and a vegetable garden. Formerly, a cow by the sweet name of Macha was grazing there attached to the pole. Nafisa drove her to graze in a field they had on the banks of the Zeravshan. The tapshan is the first thing you see when you arrive. It is installed in the entrance, out of direct merciless sunlight in August. This is a sober tapshan, wooden, with carpets and kurpachalar on which took up Nafisa's parents. How to install on the tapshan worth noting in particular. It is imperative to remove their shoes as is done before walking into a room in the house to protect carpets and not introduce inside dirt from outside. We sit cross-legged, heels under the buttocks or legs folded up on the side. This posture is uncomfortable for me, but I try to adapt myself opting for the compromise that is the semi recumbent position sometimes adopted by men.
- For as long as I can remember, said Nafisa's father, there has always been a tapshan home. This is a new, it was purchased from a craftsman. We put it under cover in the fall and winter. Formerly, we made it ourselves, with bricks and some boards. Those could stay outside all year round.
Nafisa's parents live in a neighborhood called Motrid. The name is a reference to Madrid, as well as we find, at the north of Samarkand when we take the direction of Lake Aydar-Kul, a village named Farij (Paris). This toponymy comes from the time when Tamerlan brought european craftsmen to build his palace. The house is traditional. The intimacy of family life is given by the wall that closes the property. Buildings, apartments and outbuildings are arranged around an area that has a well and a vegetable garden. Formerly, a cow by the sweet name of Macha was grazing there attached to the pole. Nafisa drove her to graze in a field they had on the banks of the Zeravshan. The tapshan is the first thing you see when you arrive. It is installed in the entrance, out of direct merciless sunlight in August. This is a sober tapshan, wooden, with carpets and kurpachalar on which took up Nafisa's parents. How to install on the tapshan worth noting in particular. It is imperative to remove their shoes as is done before walking into a room in the house to protect carpets and not introduce inside dirt from outside. We sit cross-legged, heels under the buttocks or legs folded up on the side. This posture is uncomfortable for me, but I try to adapt myself opting for the compromise that is the semi recumbent position sometimes adopted by men.
- For as long as I can remember, said Nafisa's father, there has always been a tapshan home. This is a new, it was purchased from a craftsman. We put it under cover in the fall and winter. Formerly, we made it ourselves, with bricks and some boards. Those could stay outside all year round.
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