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| La jeune vendeuse de citronnade du marché de Ferghana, 1999. |
The public taxi drops us off at the bazaar at about 2.00 p.m. I leave my luggage in the textile store of a taxi's passenger and go hotel hunting. Near the bazaar, the Ziyorat Hotel is in works. In the Intourist, where I stayed in 1999, I am yelled at by a large lady. What do I want ? There are not rooms here ! I try the Asia Hotel. After giving a dirty look on my bag looking pretty tired, the receptionist, a sensual forty-years-old Russian woman, plunging neckline and short tight skirt, tells me that rooms are expensive. I choose finally Valentina, a Family Hotel in a Soviet building managed by a retired Russians couple. There three daughters had left home, one for the United States, the two others for Russia. They do not seem to like very much the turn taken by their life since Independence.
I have a permanent memory of Fergana geography which I can find again in spite of the works. Intourist Hotel, Al-Farghoni Park, the canal, the bazaar. I walk along a wide way, a part of which is cratered and the other one under paving. It is a new "Broadway" which is built, it will be told me. Broadway, the other name of this Tashkent animated artery which goes from Amir Timour Square to Mustakillik. Broadway, that means here walkway with shops for the upper middle class. This path, I followed it in August 1999 to go for lunches with delicious blinis in a small chaykhana near the bazaar. I remember the young cute saleswoman of lemonade I had photographed. The "gazli suv" stand is still there but the seller is a child. Would she be her daughter ? A House of the Culture, in works too, is next a brand new Ferghana Trade Center. The usual amusement park with its antiquated fairground rides. Large plane trees which dead leaves cover the ground. I like this quiet autumnal atmosphere where everything moves in slow motion. The city was built by the Russian imperial army in 1876. French architects participated in its construction, using Saint-Petersburg as a model and contributing to give it this aspect of a colonial city. It was called New Marghilan because it was just next to the city based by Alexander. It took the name of Fergana with the Soviets.
I visit chaykhanas in Bozorshi Street, Kosimov Street and Parta Zavog Street. It comes from the latter a rather strong music. At 10.00 a.m. on Monday morning, a band is playing for about fifty people sitting at the tables. Party for a wedding next day. As I approach, I am immediately urged to participate in the morning plov. Rounds of vodka. As I have a camera, I have to photograph the guests.
I have a permanent memory of Fergana geography which I can find again in spite of the works. Intourist Hotel, Al-Farghoni Park, the canal, the bazaar. I walk along a wide way, a part of which is cratered and the other one under paving. It is a new "Broadway" which is built, it will be told me. Broadway, the other name of this Tashkent animated artery which goes from Amir Timour Square to Mustakillik. Broadway, that means here walkway with shops for the upper middle class. This path, I followed it in August 1999 to go for lunches with delicious blinis in a small chaykhana near the bazaar. I remember the young cute saleswoman of lemonade I had photographed. The "gazli suv" stand is still there but the seller is a child. Would she be her daughter ? A House of the Culture, in works too, is next a brand new Ferghana Trade Center. The usual amusement park with its antiquated fairground rides. Large plane trees which dead leaves cover the ground. I like this quiet autumnal atmosphere where everything moves in slow motion. The city was built by the Russian imperial army in 1876. French architects participated in its construction, using Saint-Petersburg as a model and contributing to give it this aspect of a colonial city. It was called New Marghilan because it was just next to the city based by Alexander. It took the name of Fergana with the Soviets.
I visit chaykhanas in Bozorshi Street, Kosimov Street and Parta Zavog Street. It comes from the latter a rather strong music. At 10.00 a.m. on Monday morning, a band is playing for about fifty people sitting at the tables. Party for a wedding next day. As I approach, I am immediately urged to participate in the morning plov. Rounds of vodka. As I have a camera, I have to photograph the guests.
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| Tapchane, chaïkhana Kantin rue Kosimov. |
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| Zïwan, chaïkhana Kantin rue Kosimov. |
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| Alex dans la chaïkhana Grand. |
More photos Fergana
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